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Brighton Beach, Brooklyn

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the neighborhood of brighton beach is
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located at the southern of brooklyn
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new york on the far of the B train
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while many other major u.s cities have
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notable ethnic enclaves your garden
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variety chinatowns and little italies
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brighton beach is home to a thriving
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community of immigrants from russia
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ukraine georgia and all over the former
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soviet union as soon as you arrive in
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Brighton Beach you're surrounded by
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russian shops ukrainian faces
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georgian flags and you no longer feel
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like you're just in regular old brooklyn
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because you're not
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you're in little Odessa a little
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of the black sea coast on the atlantic
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the story of little odessa begins in
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1974 with the passing of the
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jacksonvanic amendment a provision to a
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trade agreement the ussr and the
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united states which stipulated that
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jewish refugees be allowed to emigrate
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from the ussr to the u.s this resulted
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in a significant increase in russian and
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ukrainian jewish immigrants particularly
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to neighborhoods like brighton beach
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which already had a large jewish
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population after david hasselhoff
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brought down the berlin wall in and
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the subsequent fall of the soviet union
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many more citizens from the former
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soviet states made their way to brighton
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beach the main drive of
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brighton beach ave you see cyrillic
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letters on russian magazines
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and newspaper stands russian shops
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selling russian pastries
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and russian people speaking russian to
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their russian friends however the
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brighton peach of today is more of a
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microcosm of cultures from the former
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ussr all mixed together like a nice cold
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of borscht with so many people from
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ukraine azerbaijan georgia belarus
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kazakhstan uzbekistan all the other
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stands it's hard to describe brighton
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beach today as simply russian to
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continue the borscht metaphor
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the russians are simply the beets while
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the ukrainians are the the
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georgians are the potatoes and i don't
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know about the rest let's move on
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speaking of food brighton beach is a
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great place to sample some cuisines that
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will probably be unfamiliar to most
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americans my brother and i wound up
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eating right in the boardwalk at tatiana
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grill where we started with a sweet
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cheese varaniki which is like a dumpling
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filled with cheese and covered in sugar
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it was
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interesting
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though the sweetness was less
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when dipped in sour cream
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we also ordered lemonade but were told
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by our waiter that russian lemonade was
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carbonated and more like a mix between
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sprite and ale he then brought it
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out in a bottle that had a picture of a
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pear on it which made sense because it
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tasted like pears instead of any of
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those other things
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for our main courses my brother ordered
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a chicken schnitzel which isn't very
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russian but i don't make the rules here
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i ordered the poshosky cutlet which is
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apparently very popular in russian
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cuisine and was a favorite dish of zain
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nicholas the first and if it's good
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enough for , tzar it's good enough for me
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the food at tatiana was pretty good but
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the best part was the cool off
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the beach and being surrounded by
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russian diners chatting with each other
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in their native language it felt like we
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were relaxing at a beachside cafe in
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moscow if Moscow had a beach instead of
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the cold unyielding muskva river the
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actual beach at Breton beach is pretty
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nice good for swimming i
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guess that's probably what most people
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go to brighton beach for they don't care
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about culture they don't care about the
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borscht
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after eating and drinking and swimming
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you can go for a nighttime walk down
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Brighton Beach ave walking beneath the
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elevated train lines that run down the
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street this may the kind of
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ugly urban streetscape that most people
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would avoid but i feel like the trains
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running overhead gives the neighborhood
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a gritty charm like walking around a
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russian-themed film noir you'll see old
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ruskies playing backgammon in front of
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shops and packs of guys who look like
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henchmen sent to hunt down steven seagal
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going into nightclubs and all sorts of
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things that make you forget that you're
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in the same city where they record good
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morning america every week to cap off
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the evening i would recommend a stroll
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down the boardwalk where if you're lucky
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you can a street performance of
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some russian folk music by a couple of
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iphones
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[Music]
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for me this was the perfect way to end
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my visit to Little Odessa
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listening to burly men dressed like
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crewmen on a nuclear submarine played
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jaunty under a street light and a
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language i can't understand and honestly
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isn't that what we're all looking for
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the best part was that all the other
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people crowded around seemed to be
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locals who were just enjoying a little
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the old country this wasn't a
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performance for tourists to make their
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visit to little odessa feel more
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authentic
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this was just for them and we were lucky
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enough to be there
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also this one russian guy was absolutely
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pumped about every song and was just
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feeling the groove like a team rolling
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on molly at a
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it was awesome
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[Music]
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at one point a woman joined the one-man
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party and began doing her own probably
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russian folk dance but i don't think he
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noticed it all made me so very happy
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after nearly two years of various
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and travel bans it was nice to
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find a place where you can experience
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the wonders of international travel
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without needing passport that's the
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beauty of america
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in such a nation as this you
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can still find these little
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international pockets right in your own
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city
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so if you ever find yourself in need of
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a cultural getaway but you can't
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a plane
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consider looking in your own
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find one of the neighborhoods where the
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old country still survives no matter
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what the old country is and take it all
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in
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eat the food
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to the language
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and dance dance dance the night